Pisa, known for its leaning tower and little else.
I’d been here twice before, both times because I had been to Florence and was departing via Pisa airport. The first time we only ventured into the town far enough to pick up something to eat and then get back to the station to get to the airport. The second time I made it as far as the leaning tower, with its crowds all wanting to use it as the backdrop for their selfie. Both times I had been disappointed by the experience, and had only been reluctantly persuaded to visit for a third time
The exception proving the rule: the fountain outside of Pisa Centrale station showing that the Italians can design an underwelming fountain
We are staying in this 18th century house near the centre of Pisa
The room is fabulous, full of quirky features and original artworks
Having unpacked we head for the famous tower. But first, our host has recommended a gelateria – voted the best in Italy. That is serious ice cream, and we must try it. We both have the apricot flavoured sheep’s milk ice cream. For my second scoop I opted for vanilla, Vera for salted caramel. It was deservedly prize winning, particularly the ewe’s milk ice cream.
We were trying to find the city walls, we like nothing better than walking along city walls. But these were proving elusive, and even once we had found them we were unable to locate one of the four access points. So we will just have to save that for our next visit
Suddenly the tower comes into view. It does lean at a crazy angle. It is also smaller than expected. I think seeing it on every famous sites of Europe map makes you believe it is bigger than it actually is. It also leans at a steeper angle than you would believe possible
Vera, with the obligatory Pisa photo
Unlike Florence there is no queue to get into the cathedral. But you have to get a (free) ticket from the ticket office, and all of the tickets for the day have gone. So either way, you don’t get to see inside. We are also struck by the cleanliness of the whole site, the greenness of the grass, it is very well cared for – quite rightly, as it is bringing so many people into the town
Something to eat in a little side street bar. The food is very simple and very good, with carafes of cheap but very drinkable wine
We were drawn by in by the owner sat outside strumming his guitar and singing. Vera gets him to play after our meal, belting out some Ella Fitzgerald numbers
We go further up the street and sample the beers in a nearby bar. We are drawn here by its music and range of beer taps. I can report that the tradition of serving snacks and nibbles with drinks is very much alive here
I can also report that the beer scene in Italy is also changing, influenced by the craft beer movement and moving away from lagers and towards a west coast IPA style that is challenging the Brewdog corporate lawyers
So having arrived with not wanting to visit Pisa at all, I leave wishing I had stayed longer. My earlier flying visits were never going to do the place justice, there is much more than a cathedral complex, and so much that I would still like to see
No comments:
Post a Comment