Nimes

Nice to Nimes is also a two train journey, changing at Marseille, but we feel fairly safe with 50 minutes between connections. The first train is a double decker and we have seats upstairs

The train is modern, very comfortable, and a very smooth ride. It speeds along very quietly and you barely feel that you are moving

We poke our noses outside of the station at Marseille, but this a city for another journey on another day

Our first impressions of Nimes are very favourable. Rail stations are often grubby and uninviting, in less attractive areas. But Nimes is an exception, with a stone station building and attractive fountain outside

The walk into the centre is along a tree lined boulevard with a stream linking the plaza around the end with the station. Everything is spotless and clean with no litter whatsoever. It really sets our expectations for this city

Our accommodation is on the third floor of this building, built around a central courtyard. In a previous incarnation this building had been a convent

The flat is perfect for us

With small kitchen and bathroom, the solid stone walls keeping an ideal temperature and very quiet

This is our local square; fountains, public art, street cafes and restaurants abound

No visit would be complete without a ride on the little train

This is my favourite art installation. When you push it round the coloured lights swing out, the bird moves its wings and the figure moves its head. But it’s not easy for a small child to spin, they have to cooperate and work together

Our visit is marred by either food poisoning or a stomach bug. On the first evening we dine at a street bistro. I have one of the best burgers I have ever eaten, it includes a potato rosti as one of its layers. Vera has a seafood salad, also very good

We visit this bar afterwards, they have 14 different beers on tap and you load money onto a card. You can then serve yourself as much or as little as you want. It’s a great idea, allowing you to try a wide range of ales

The next morning Vera wakes with diarrhea, and is confined to be within 10m of a toilet. Our local square has a pharmacy, and using my best mime skills I obtain oral rehydration powder.

I visit the archeological museum, which is very well laid out with full explanations in several languages. By the evening she has recovered enough to venture out for a walk around the streets.

It’s my turn the next day.....

We visit the three big Roman sites. The amphitheatre, which is still very much in use and takes a couple of hours to get round

The Maison Carrie, or The Square House, is one of the best preserved temples of the Roman world

We are heading for the Tour Magne, a tower on the old city walls that dominates the town. This is at the top of the Jardin de la Fontane, laid out with pools

water cascades

statuary

We finally reach the tower,

the guy in the ticket office manages to persuade Vera that the stairs to the top are not such a big deal

and it’s a great view

It’s at this point that I start to feel somewhat queasy. We sit down on the grass, but the feeling isn’t going away. It’s not a long way back to our flat, but it seems to drag on forever. I am convinced that I am going to throw up in the street, which in such a beautiful place would be mortifying. I manage to make it back and up the three flights of stairs before retching up the contents of my stomach

Vera, much recovered, goes out to a local restaurant for a little charcuterie board and some wine. It is my turn to stay at home and hope that I’m OK to travel tomorrow

Our verdict on Nimes: a most charming, interesting and relaxed place. Definitely worth a visit

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